La Rambla Without a doubt this is the epicentre of Barcelona and a good place to get your bearings. Running from the central Placa de Catalunya (think London's Trafalgar Square) to Placa Portal de la Pau by the port, the mile-long Ramblas is Barcelona's main artery and tourist trap. What was once a magnificent, pretty tree-lined avenue, today is a fairly lurid affair. Be prepared to be accosted by pavement artistes; living statues, fire-eaters, jugglers, mimes, musicians and transvestite flamenco dancers pirouetting on skyscraper heels. Add to this people selling budgerigars, hard-core pornography, vegetable seed-packets and flowers and it becomes a bit of a bazaar. There are plenty of expensive cafes from which to watch the world go by such as Cafe de L'Opera, a grand cafe from the 19th century with an alfresco seating area opposite the Liceu opera house. Unsurpassed for people watching. A good alternative is Cafe Zurich (another old Barcelona institution, which has been moved to swanky new premises on Placa Catalunya.

Top Tip Be street-wise and safety conscious in La Ramblas! If possible wear a money belt and keep flashy cameras and jewellery under wraps.

Barri Gothic To the left off La Rambla (if you are facing the sea) the Barri Gothic, dates back to Roman times and is by far one of the most interesting and buzzing of Barcelona's districts. A labyrinth of little gargoyle-lined lanes and streets are home to the gothic cathedral and some prominent historic buildings. There are many fine churches, and historic houses here too, which sit cheek by jowl with trendy cafes, bars and restaurants. Don't miss the side-street C/Portaferissa, which is one of the trendiest shopping streets in the city. Stop off at the Grall Hall, a mini-clothes-mall, where you can buy the perfect outfit for a big Barcelona night out. Spend time in the stunning Placa Reial, one of the city's main squares, a delightful mix of cheap and expensive cafes and restaurants, and packed both night and day. Spot Gaudi's gorgeous fountain in the centre and his decorative lampposts.

Top Tip Again take precautions against pickpockets and be prepared to be bothered by buskers. Many of the restaurants here don't take bookings so you may have to queue.

El Born Nestling between the Barri Gothic and the Parc Ciutadella, El Born is Barcelona's coolest, in vogue 'new' area. The Catalonian chattering classes have reinvented what was a run-down pedestrianised district from hell's kitchen into the most hip and happening neighbourhood. Built for 13th and 14th century merchants, the medieval narrow lanes and courtyards are deluged with designers who hang out in the cool cafes, bars restaurants and shops. At it's heart is the tree-lined Passeig del Born, which has the Catalan high gothic cathedral Santa Maria del Mar, the peoples' church at one end and the magnificent Mercat del Born, a glass and steel covered market, dating back to 1870, inspired by Les Halles in Paris, at the other.

Top Tip Hang out and drink lots of coffee or Estrella Damm beer here, but like the rest of Barcelona, don't even think of coming here to eat before at least 10pm, because El Born stays open very late.

El Raval On the opposite side of La Rambla to the Barri Gothic, El Raval was outside the medieval walls and as such became the focus for everything not wanted within the medieval city. At various times it has played host to the Red Light district and Chinatown, but much has fallen under the bulldozer recently and been cleaned up. Today the area is home to a sizeable Moslem community who have moved into apartments considered undesirable by Barcelonans. The area is home to the 15th century Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu, which now houses an art school and the city's main library. Gaudi lovers head for Palau Guell on Nou de la Rambla, built for Eusebi Guell, Gaudi's patron in 1888.

Top Tip Palau Geull is only open for guided visits so go early or late in the day to avoid the queues.

Mont Juic Some think that this magical mountain (well big hill), on the right side of the city as you face the sea, was founded by Hercules. Some say it's the mountain of Jupiter. But whatever your thinking, this green parkland, although up for major development to be completed by 2004, is a place apart and still a great getaway from the oppressive heat of the city at the height of summer. Hop on the funicular railway, which runs from Para-lel to the top of Mount Juic for a terrific city overview. Wander through the pretty, leafy hilltop terraces, then make for the vertigo inducing Olympic swimming pool to see the whole of Barcelona falling away beneath it. At the nearby Fundacio Joan Miro, the cool white concrete mausoleum housing the artworks of the Catalan homeboy, you can catch up on culture and pose in the great outdoor/indoor cafe.

Top Tip Descend via the open-air escalators on the other side of the hill past the stately Palau Nacional, to Placa Espanya.

Barceloneta and Vila Olimpica Barceloneta was once a run-down district between the harbour and the sea but has been massively regenerated and is now packed at weekends with sun worshippers on their way to the beach and with those thronging into the fantastic seafood restaurants, which abound here. The Vila Olimpica was, surprise surprise, created for the 1992 Olympics on former industrial wastelands near the waterfront. Signature Spanish architects and Brit David Mackay were given the job of changing the city from looking inwards to facing outwards towards the sea with huge success. Best is the Port Olimpic, a high-tech cutting edge conurbation crammed with restaurants, bars and the smart Ritz-Carlton Hotel Arts.

Top Tip Walk along the seafront and then have a drink in the bar at The Arts, as the terrace with its open air pool and topiaried gardens is superb.

Eixample The financial and commercial district, to the right of Placa Catalunya has wide tree-lined avenues and fantastic architecture. Along with the banks and offices is a fair selection of shopping centres, many of the big name designers are to be found here, along with a selection of art galleries and cinemas. In recent years, parts of the Eixample have become popular with the gay population and their trendy friends, so there are now many chic cafes, bars and clubs, which are popular with locals and those in the know, around C/Consell de Cent and C/Mutaner.

Top Tip Follow the crowds who bar-crawl from one trendy hotspot to another.

Gracia Gracia had its heyday back in the 1980s when it was the place to hangout after dark. Today its still fairly buzzing but is more establishment than cutting edge. There are many fine restaurants and fashion shops here and plenty of little squares to stop and watch the world go by whilst having a coffee.

Top Tip If there's space available stop for coffee or a beer at Cafe del Sol in Placa del Sol.

Parc Guell Built on a hill overlooking the city with fabulous views over the rooftops down to the sea, Parc Guell was Gaudi's blueprint for patron Eusebi Guell's vision of a 'garden suburb', which never happened. Geull envisaged that the city's rich would build their houses on this leafy hillside amongst Gaudi's avant garde designs for the public spaces. Most were put off by the architects forward looking work and the idea never took off. Their loss became the city's gain and the green space was taken over as a public park and it is truly stunning. The gatehouses and pavilions are straight out of Disney and there are plenty of signature Gaudi touches and miles of ceramic mosaics.

Top Tip Great to visit at any time but perfect for a promenade on a Sunday or an early evening stroll.

Sagrada Familia, Placa Sagrada Familia. Tel 00 34 93 207 3031. Work is still very much in progress on this unfinished masterpiece by Gaudi. The vast over-the-top cathedral is set to be completed in 2050, but don't hold your breath. Except you will when you take the lift up to one of the bell towers and stroll along the narrow walkways with their vertigo inducing views. The crypt museum charts the progress of work from Gaudi's original sketches to the present day. Open daily 9am-8pm. 

Catedral de Barcelona, Pla de la Seu. Tel 00 34 93 315 1554. Dating back to the 13th century, this stunning cathedral in the Barri Gothic is pure medieval delight. There are three naves containing great sculptures and paintings and there is a particularly fine choir dating from the 1390's. Take the lift to the roof for a great view over the oldest part of Barcelona. Open 8am-1.30pm, 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri. 8am-1.30pm, 5-7.30pm Sat and Sun. 

Placa Sant Jaume. The original main square of the old town is surprisingly still the seat of administration of the modern city. Both the City Hall and the Palau de la Generalitat (regional government headquarters) are situated here and date from the late 16th century.

Palau Guell, C/Nou de la Rambal 3-5. Tel 00 34 93 317 3974. Built is 1898 by Gaudi for his patron, the dark and forbidding exterior give way to a stunning and delicate interior. Guided tours only. Arrive early or late to avoid the queues, but opening hours vary. 

Santa Maria del Mar, Placa de Santa Maria. Tel 00 34 93 310 2390. When is a church not a church? When it's the people's cathedral. This is the city's favourite place of worship and as such, attracts more locals than the gothic cathedral. Built in the early 14th century, there are superb stained glass windows to wonder at and perfect peace to enjoy before spilling out into trendy El Born's alfresco cafes. Open 9am-1.30pm and 4.30-8pm daily. Entrance free.

Colom, Placa de la Pau. Tel 00 34 93 302 5224. The monument to Christopher Columbus was built for the 1888 Exhibition and is still impressive today. Ride the lift to the top for a great view of the port. Open 10am-1pm and 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri. 10am-6.30pm Sat and Sun.

Piscina Municipal de Mont Juic, Mont Juic. Tel 00 34 93 443 0046. The impressive swimming pool with the city spectacularly falling away beneath it is a wonderful place for a summer swim or dive. Open June to August. 

La Pedrera, Passeig de Gracia 92. Tel 00 34 93 484 5995. This is another stunning building in which to pay homage to architect Gaudi. There are no straight lines whatsoever in this extraordinary creation, originally designed as an apartment block. Today there is an exhibition space and a stunning rooftop terrace, which plays host to a chic bar, La Pedrera de nit. Open 10am-8pm daily mid-June-mid-Sept and 9am-1am Fri and Sat. 

Parc de la Ciutadella. This is one of Barcelona's oldest parks dating from the 1888 Exhibition, located directly north of the zoo. A great place to get away from the bustle and heat of the city and perfect if you have kids in tow.

Hotel Arts, C/Marina 19-21. Tel 00 34 93 221 1000. This stunning glass and steel 44-storey construction is well worth a visit even if you can't afford the Ritz-Carlton prices. Built facing the waterfront there are wonderful sculpture and water gardens on the terrace to walk through and specially commissioned artwork is scattered throughout the public spaces of the hotel. Take a deep breath and enter.

Top Tip Most of the impressive sights get packed during high season, so again go early or late in the day to avoid the queues and the crowds.

Sitges This small, chic seaside resort is packed with brilliantly white buildings and narrow winding lanes, leading down to a picture-perfect, palm-fringed corniche. Sitges enjoys a unique microclimate with hot, sunny days from February to November, so it's small wonder this former fishing village is a favourite weekend haunt of cool Barcelonans and those in the know. Expect sun drenched beaches, a cosmopolitan and international gay crowd, top-notch nightclubs, bars and restaurants and you won't be disappointed. 

Vilafranca del Penedes Vilafranca del Penedes and the neighbouring town of Sant Sadurni D'Anoia are significant wine areas. The former is at the heart of Penedes DO, which produces excellent, still white wines, whilst Sant Sadurni is the home of cava, Spanish champagne. Numerous wineries are open to the public offering tours, tasting and sales - check out the tourist information office in Vilafranca for details and times - including the familiar Freixenet, Codorniu, and Torres labels. 

Montserrat The famous Benedictine shrine, the Monestir de Montserrat, perches halfway up the saw-tooth mountain. Founded in 1025, the monastery is home to around 80 monks, the Black Virgin icon, the heavenly Montserrat Boys' Choir and an excellent museum, which has a collection including works by Caravaggio and Picasso. The most dramatic approach is by cable car and on a clear day you can see the Pyrenees and Majorca. 

Terrassa Travel through the centuries in Terrassa, which is best known for the trio of outstanding pre-Romanesque churches, the Esglesies de Sant Pere, Sant Miquel and Santa Maria. Sant Pere is the largest and the only one in use today, but all three have stunning Visigothic and Roman structures dating from the 8th to 10th centuries. Don't miss the 12th century Castell de Vallparadis and the 17th century Pont de Sant Pere in the historic centre. The Casa Alegre de Sagrera is a fine example of a late 18th century mansion with a Modernista makeover. 

Parc Natural del Montseny This stunning natural park and walkers' paradise has towering peaks and dense pine and oak forests. Trails include the GR5 long distance path and numerous mountain-bike routes. Great views of the Pyrenees are to be had from the various summits. 

Tarragona The rich remains here of Tarraco, the former Roman capital of the Iberian Peninsula are the finest in Spain. Must-see sights include the necropolis, the forum, a well-preserved amphitheatre and circus. Modern day Tarragona's Rambla Nova is packed with al fresco cafes and restaurants a la Barcelona and there are some fine beaches, notably Platja Llarga, just out of town. 

Costa del Maresme North of Barcelona is seaside heaven with a stretch of small towns such as Sant Pol de Mar and Caldes d'Estrac attracting a fair number of townies on days out and local and foreign tourists. If you are looking for an upmarket gentrified fishing village then San Pol should suit. For a more bucket and spade experience or to bare all try Caldes d'Estrac. 

Girona Overlooking the Riu Onyar, the ancient, hilltop city of Girona makes for an interesting day out. Easy to explore on foot, Girona is divided into old and new by the river. Much of what you want to see lies in the old part of town such as the Catalan gothic cathedral, the Museu d'Art and the Arab Baths. 

Figueres The main reason for coming to this northern Spanish town, near the French border is to spend time at the Museu Dali. After the Prado in Madrid, the Dali is the most visited museum in the country. The artist was born and died in Figueres and he had his first exhibition here when he was only fourteen. A great collection of some of the lesser known works by Dali. 

Vic This sleepy market town has some wonderful medieval buildings and is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. Put your best foot forward and do some walking in the peaceful countryside to completely get away from it all. 

Top Tip The Spanish public transport system is easy to follow, inexpensive and thoroughly reliable. Get a train timetable and map from tourist information and the fascinating, surrounding area is yours for the taking.